Equine Herpes Virus – Worth Worrying About?

Just the mention of EHV-1, the Equine Herpes Virus, is enough to strike fear in the heart of any horse owner.  But what IS it, really? And how do we keep our horses safe?

The fact is that many horses are infected with the virus as a foal, others in adult life.  Like herpes infections in humans, the virus often goes dormant but can resurface when the horse is stressed by training, transport, competition, herd dynamics, or other health conditions.  The EHV-1 strain can affect your horse in 3 different ways:

 

1) respiratory

2) foal abortion

3) neurologic, specifically herpes myeloencephalopathy (EHM)

The incubation period is 1-10 days, with shedding of the virus through nasal secretions typically taking place for another 10 days after the host is infected.  Some cases have been reported to shed the virus for as long as 28 days.  

Direct horse-to-horse contact facilitates exposure, and it’s possible for airborne particles expelled by coughing or sneezing to transfer to horses some distance away, although no one knows exactly how far.  But the virus can also be transmitted on physical objects, including our own hands, clothing and shoes, as well as grooming equipment, tack, buckets, rakes, hoses and water tanks, just to name a few. The virus can survive for 7 days on these objects under normal circumstances, and as long as 28 days under perfect conditions. 

Can you protect your horse with a vaccine?  Yes and no.  The vaccine won't STOP your horse from contracting the virus, but it may lessen the amount of virus shedding in secretions.  This may reduce the likelihood of infecting other horses, in turn preventing foal abortions, while also reducing the respiratory symptoms in the infected horse.

But NO vaccine can protect your horse from the neurologic form of the disease.  In addition, it has been suggested that frequent vaccination with killed virus vaccine may actually INCREASE the risk of EHV-1.  So now we ponder....to vaccinate or not to vaccinate.  

That decision is, ultimately, up to you.  Regardless, here are a few things you can do to reduce your risk of infection:

1)      Stay informed of an outbreak in your area.  All outbreaks for any equine-related disease in the U.S. are reported on this web site:  http://equinediseasecc.org/outbreaks.aspx.  

2)      If there is an outbreak in an area you’re planning to trailer to, your best defense is to just stay home.  

3)      If you've already paid your entry fees and are determined to go, heavily disinfect your stall, put tarps on shared walls of stalls, avoid 'hanging out' on your horse in the warm up pen, and don't let your horse sniff noses with anyone.  Avoid touching other horses, wash your hands frequently and thoroughly disinfect all of your tools and equipment frequently.

And, finally, do everything possible to lessen the possibility of stressing your horse and to strengthen his immune system.  Give him good nutrition, avoid changing feeds abruptly, keep him hydrated, give him plenty of rest, and condition him properly before taking him to the event.

Forage Cubes - Just Add Water

Recently, we've had several horses arrive for rehab that are fed alfalfa cubes as their sole diet.  There’s a lot of controversy over the "perfect way to feed" our horses - and we certainly aren’t claiming to know what “perfect” is!  After all, each horse has his own special and unique needs. 

But, if you are going to feed alfalfa cubes, we HIGHLY recommend they be soaked in water before feeding for three main reasons: 1) choke, 2) tooth wear, and 3) dehydration.

Choke is a common enemy to all horses that bolt down their grain.  But alfalfa and Timothy cubes are the perfect size to cause an obstruction.  So, it’s critical these cubes break up quickly and easily for your horse. 

Quickly and easily is not how anyone who’s tried it would describe breaking these cubes up!  They’re hard as bricks!  Think about how hard (and long) your horse will have to chew to break them up in small enough pieces to safely swallow!  Now think of all the wear and tear on your horse’s teeth - teeth that were designed to bite off tender grass shoots, not chew threw the equivalent of plaster chunks.

And these cubes aren’t just difficult to chew – they are very dry.  Look at the pictures and you’ll see that close to 3/4 of a whole bucket of water was added to the cubes. 

After just 4 hours they crumble nicely in your hand.  But, if you don't ADD water to the cubes, the cubes will TAKE IT from the stomach and intestines for digestion.  This increases the risk of colic and dehydration.

In a nutshell, if you're going to feed cubed alfalfa, Timothy or any other forage, please remember to soak first!  Whenever possible, start with smaller sized cubes - alfalfa comes in both regular cattle size as well as minis.  This ounce of prevention really is worth a pound of cure!

April Showers Bring May...

Flowers Rain Rot!

Yes, that “fungus among us” can happen faster than you think!  In the early stages, you may be able to feel the scabs under his coat as small bumps, or see small matted tufts of hair.  Underneath the scabs, which can be easily scraped off, the skin is often pink and raw, and then becomes gray and dry as it heals. 

If your horse doesn't have a shelter from the rain or, like 90% of his equine kinfolk, he refuses to use that $1500 shelter you built him for that very reason, he's prone to developing a skin fungus.  But just being exposed to rain alone isn't the cause.  Being immunocompromised, poor health, poor coat condition (for lack of grooming) and stress can all be contributors.  

Here are a few tips to help stop it from happening:

1) keep your horse dry

2) allow several hours of sunshine each day

3) if wet, get them dry as soon as possible 

4) minimal bathing in cool weather as it takes so long to dry

5) use an antifungal shampoo if you do bathe him

If your horse already has a fungus, here are a few ways to treat it:

1) antifungal shampoo and over the counter sprays

2) rotate a spray of 50/50 iodine and water, another with 50/50 Listerine and water

3) sunshine full time

4) body clip the area to help treat it and keep it medicated

5) if the fungus is real bad, ask your Veterinarian for a prescription of Griseofulvin, an oral paste 

We wish you and your horse a fungus-free spring!

Surviving the Spring Shedding

Who needs a groundhog to tell us how many weeks of winter are left?  Just look at the barn aisle floor after giving ol’ Misty a good currying!

Yes, our horses tell us spring is coming when the layers of winter hair start falling off!  It's a nose-tickling, barn-cluttering, comb-clogging process to rid our faithful friends of their shaggy warm coats.  Check out these helpful hints for making it go as quickly as possible…

• Body clip – It’s a slow process, but it sure makes short order of even the longest coat!  It’s a 4-6 hour job but, once complete, you’re done for the season!  However, Mother Nature always throws us a few last frigid days or nights, so be sure to blanket your horse if the temperatures fall into the mid 40's or below.
• Curry – Whether it’s wire or rubber, it's still a workout every day.  The benefits for your horse are that it’s more natural process, and he’s less likely to get sick with lingering cold snaps.  The benefit for you is that you’ll build up some arm muscles!
• Slick block – This square block of fiberglass literally pulls out the dead hair without clogging like a curry comb.  It’s quicker than combs and leaves a shine to their coat.  
• Shedding blade – While this is a little less work than a curry or slick block, you do have to be careful not to break your horse’s skin with the sharp teeth. 

No matter what technique you use, there is still the hair to deal with, and it gets in and on everything, it seems!  I swear I’ve coughed up hairballs after a good spring grooming!  But, it’s small price to pay for the sunny, warm days of riding that are just ahead of us.  

Being a Fit Rider FOR Your Horse

Many times our horses seem off, a tick lame, or you 'just can't put your finger on it' but he not himself.  It may be hard to believe, but some of what your horse is feeling could actually be caused by YOU, his rider!  

When you step into the saddle, you change the way your horse moves.  Your balance, the pressure you exert on his body and his mouth through the bit, the way your body reacts when he accelerates or stops – all of these require his body to react and adjust as well.

How can we minimize the affect on our horse?

1. Ride with your core.  All of our instructors have made this point more than once, I’m sure.  But, it’s true and very important.  It’s your core that helps you to stay balanced, secure and vertical in the saddle, allowing your horse to move freely underneath you with little interference.     
   
2. Strengthen your weak side.  It's been documented in studies that our dominant side (right or left handed) will reflect a strong shoulder but weak opposing hip.  This imbalance can result in lower back fatigue and strains for you, but it can also affect your horse.  Your dominant hand can be exerting close to 40% more pressure on his mouth, making him travel uneven, which can make him sore as well.  
3. Square up your spine.  You have to ride centered on your horse.  Listing to one side, riding with a heavy leg on the right or left, or having a crooked neck can all effect his way of travel.  
4. Improve your cardiovascular health.  Riding balanced and centered also requires you to be relaxed, so you need to be able to recover quickly from  physical exertion or psychological stress. 
5. Keep your body fit.  Staying balanced in the saddle while maximizing your ability to execute planned movements, as well as to react to any surprises, requires a good muscle to fat ratio and loose, limber limbs.  Eat a balanced diet and stretch often.

You and your horse are a team.  You’re both athletes.  And you both need to be fit, healthy and relaxed to have the best chance of achieving your goals.  So before you swing your leg over the saddle, stretch out those muscles, tighten up that core and exhale all your inhibitions!  Let's ride!

Warm or Cold – Winter Water Choices

Breaking ice in water troughs is a LOT of work!  Step one....sledgehammer.  Step two....double layer of Playtex Gloves to fish out the floating boat-sized chunks.  Step three....blow hot air on your hands to thaw out!  It's miserable work!  

Many of us use tank heaters to keep our horses water ice free and avoid all that work.  Ever wonder how our horses feel about it?   

Several studies have been conducted regarding ice-laden water versus heated water in the winter months.  If given a choice between warm or cold water, the majority of horses will go for the cold water.  Perhaps the choice is instinctual, but no-one has explained why.  However, if horses have warm water as their only choice, they will consume 40% more than if they had cold water as their only choice.  And, regardless of the temperature, horses will drink most of their water within a few hours of eating their grain or hay.  

At the end of the day, water temperature is really the owner’s choice!  Which sounds like less work?  Running extension cords to all your water tanks, or swinging a sledge hammer?  Either way, the average 1,200 pound horse will drink 7 to 10 gallons of water a day, year round, and he honestly doesn't care if it's warm or cold!  

Wild Winter Weather – Cause for Colic?

Yep, it's winter in Texas!  It can be 70º today, then drop 40º tomorrow!  How do horses handle this shock?

Typically, healthy horses can adjust rather quickly.  And, most of the time, it's not the temperatures that effect them…it’s the barometric pressure changes.  In humans, these changes can cause headaches, dizziness, and arthritis flare ups.  In horses, they can cause colic.

We can't control Mother Nature and her winter wonders, but we can stay one step ahead of her.  Keeping a close eye on the10 to 15 day forecast, as well as monitoring the current temperature and barometric pressure readings, are important to avoiding weather-related incidents of colic. 

When you see changes coming, here are a few things you can do to help your equine buddies…

• Add electrolytes and probiotics to their feed several days ahead of the storm
• Set them free!  If horses are able to move about, they can stay warmer, lay down and roll to help their own GI tract adjust
• Don't worm, vaccinate, travel, change their diet, or exercise them heavily
• Don't dramatically change their housing; if they are accustomed to being stalled or in a pasture, just leave them be
• Watch closely for signs of colic in the first 24 hours after barometric pressure changes; while there are no confirmed study cases of barometric pressure changes and colic, most veterinary clinics will report an increase in colic calls

At Cold River, we believe that “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.”  That includes doing everything possible to help our equine companions withstand the roller-coaster conditions of our Texas winters.

Winter Wear for Your Horse - Not a Blanket Statement

Old Man Winter has started to show his frosty face again, even way down here in North Texas.  It’s time once again to locate your horse’s sheets, blankets and coolers.  But, before you bundle up ol’ Buddy there, let’s talk a little about when and why you should be using a winter blanket at all.

It’s important to remember that horses are cold weather beasts by nature.  They thrive in cooler temperatures, and I’m sure you’ve seen this when your horse is friskier as soon as the weather turns cooler.  Their internal thermometers also run hotter than humans so, when we’re grabbing a sweater or jacket, your horse is just happy the AC has finally been turned on!

Your horse’s coat is built for maximum insulation.  Hair follicles erect the hair, allowing more insulating air pockets to form between the skin and the end of the hairs.  The skin also produces a layer of insulating dander – that white flaky dust you will see near the skin – so don’t wash it away!  As the temperature warms, the hair coat lays down flat again and releases the trapped heat.  It’s truly an amazing process!

But blankets actually compress the hair, forcing it to lay flat and preventing it from creating those insulating pockets of air.  And, if you blanket over early or over extended periods of time, your horse will grow less of a hair coat to begin with.  So, blanketing may actually be doing your horse more harm than good.

Horses who live in Texas can easily withstand temperatures down to 10ºF without blanketing, provided they are in good condition, get plenty of the right nutrition and can get out of the wind and rain.  Rain and sleet are particularly dangerous, as the water will flatten and saturate your horse’s coat, reducing its ability to provide insulation and warmth for your horse.  But a cold wind can also penetrate your horse’s coat with the same results.

Keep in mind that, when you work your horse hard enough in cold temperatures, his sweat penetrates his coat from underneath, with the same consequences as rain.  Drape his body in a cooler made of wool or other quick-wicking fabric to draw away the moisture and trap warmth underneath at the same time.  Always walk out your horse until his respiration drops, he stops sweating, and his chest no longer feels hot to the touch.

Here at Cold River, we blanket senior horses more than others, thin horses who need to gain weight, hard keepers and the ones who, despite the dark days and cold temps, just don't grow much of a coat at all.  It’s all part of our “whole horse” approach to taking care of our equine companions!

When Things Get Hairy: Your Horse’s Winter Coat

Is your horse starting to grow that longer, thicker winter coat?  Are your thoughts turning to blankets, clippers and other means of coat control?

Before you invest any time and money, consider first what causes your horse to do this each Fall.  It might surprise you to know the regulation of hair growth starts with photoreceptors in the eyes plus heat and cold sensors in the skin. Combine these sensors with a decrease in the number of daylight hours and the cooler ambient temperatures, and boom!  You've got hair!

So, if you really want to stop your horse from growing a winter coat, you will need to put him under “full spectrum” lighting, which most closely mimics light from the sun.  And, if you do that, you will also need to keep him warm inside, either with a heater or a blanket.

Blanketing by itself won’t stop hair growth, but it may affect the thickness.  Body clipping will only remove the hair that is already there, and then you will have to keep him blanketed to make up for the missing winter fur.

And, regardless of how you minimize or eliminate winter hair growth, you are increasing the risk that your horse will get sick.  Your horse’s coat was designed to keep him warm in the coldest of conditions.

Here at Cold River, we believe horses are healthier and happier when they can romp outside in the furry winter coats Mother Nature gave them.

Choke – Cause, Treatment & Prevention

It's rare but it happens.  Unlike choke in humans, which blocks the trachea, your horse can still breathe, because the blockage is in his esophagus.  If he is unable to swallow, you may see or feel a bulge in the neck, and he may show signs of distress. 

When it does happen, it’s important to keep your horse calm and, if you are comfortable giving IV shots, administer a sedative.  The sedative will reduce the involuntary spasms of the esophageal muscles.  Often times this, along with an increase in salivation, allows the blockage to pass without further treatment.

If that doesn’t work, get to your veterinarian as soon as possible to avoid complications like a rupture in the esophagus or aspiration pneumonia.  Your vet can use a stomach tube to slowly empty the contents of the esophagus (see photo below) and administer antibiotics and pain relievers if needed.

Here are some good tips for preventing a choking incident…

• avoid pellet feeds
• soften alfalfa cubes by soaking in water before feeding
• feed hard treats, including carrots & apples, in bite-sized pieces
• good equine dental care
• lots of fresh clean drinking water 24/7

If you have a dainty, slow eater, these tips will probably be enough.  But if you have a horse that “bolts” his food down, you may want to slow him down.  Several large rocks added to his feed bucket is an old but effective trick.  There are also compartment feeders like the one shown below.

If your horses are like mine, feeding time is their favorite time of day.  Keep it safe for them as well with a little prevention.

Bring Back Basic Boarding

I have a friend who is an experienced rider with a finished horse, and she simply cannot find a suitable place to board her horse.  Her “wish list” isn’t that long or difficult…24/7 pasture turnout with a stall for bad weather, an arena with good footing, and a knowledgeable staff that can take care of her horse if he gets sick or injured.  It’s basic horse boarding, and it’s not as easy to find as you might think!

Finding a barn with 24/7 turnout isn’t easy, and turnout on pasture narrows the field (no pun intended!) even further.  But, often times when you do find it, you also find requirements to take riding lessons or to have your horse in training.  Not only is it expensive, it may be totally unnecessary and even seems a little presumptuous of your barn to decide what lessons and training you and your horse need!

We believe horses should be allowed to be horses, with 24/7 turnout and stalls only when bad weather threatens.  We will do everything we can to ensure your horse is happy and healthy.  And, we do offer lessons, training and exercise, but we’ll leave it up to you to decide what you want and when.  Basic boarding is alive and well here at Cold River!

Stormy Dilemma - To Stall or Not to Stall?

Horses love being outside, so those of us who have that option are happy to let them enjoy the pasture or paddock as much as possible.  But, when the weather turns nasty, we’re faced with the choice of leaving them out to weather the storm, or bring them into the barn.

The biggest objection I hear to the “bring them in” option is, “but they’ll surely be killed or seriously hurt if a tornado blows down the barn.”  That’s true, but they can also be impaled by flying debris if that tornado hits when they’re outside. 

If there isn’t a tornado bearing down directly on your barn, here are some other reasons to consider bringing your horse inside…

• rain can make for slick footing, and a slip can damage tendons & ligaments
• lightning strikes aren’t that uncommon, and they will kill a horse
• hail is very painful anywhere it hits a horse, and it can cause serious eye injuries
• in a violent storm, horses can panic and run into or through fencing, resulting in serious and even life-threatening injuries
• repeated drenching over several days is an opportunity for the “rain rot” fungus to infect your horse, causing hair loss and discomfort

At Cold River, we have permanent boarders as well as temporary equine residents for training and rehabilitation, and for owners traveling on vacation or business. We use a “bring them in” policy if we think any of these conditions might threaten their well-being.  Just one more reason you can trust Cold River with your horse!